The morning after the night before and there was a decidedly odd atmosphere at La Calabaza del Peregrino as people began to stir around 6am. Albergue life requires a certain degree of tolerance, but it was becoming apparent that one or two dormitory denizens might have reached the end of their tether. One of these …
This Woman’s Work
Many years ago, I found myself weekly wallowing in the wonderful words expressed by the venerable Australian writer Clive James in a series of podcasts for the BBC, which covered a multiplicity of subjects, but which largely sought to focus on the overarching benefits of liberal democracy for those of us lucky enough to actually …
A Pilgrim Dinner…or two
After the odd start to the day before with a temporary incarceration in Arcade, my desayuno at Hotel Rúas in Pontevedra was similarly unusual in that it included a drunken floorshow provided by a local couple who had clearly been drinking all night on a Sunday evening and a Monday morning. They were now attempting, …
To Pontevedra
The seventh day of the Portugués started off in unusual circumstances as I found myself actually locked inside my hotel, somewhat stymied in my attempt to make an early Sunday morning start on the road to Pontevedra. This sort of thing just doesn't happen in albergues. I might have understood the detention policy if it …
Porriño to Arcade
In an attempt to reduce distractions and reminders of the Outside World whilst on the Portugués, I had removed all the social media apps from my phone as soon as I landed in Porto. A digital detox would be attempted, perhaps leading to a more interior experience, with fewer unwanted invasions from external influences. This …
Viva España
It's probably not really Portugal's fault. It's tried very hard, with some splendid walking, wonderful vistas, Super Bock and some pretty good weather. But crossing this bridge this morning from Valença into Tui took me back once more into the warm embrace of Spain, the true home of the Camino - and almost immediately, it …
An Obvious Decision
Much as I'd hoped to be able to walk the 260km from Porto to Santiago in ten or eleven days, another interrupted night with the Tedious Cough saw me slow to rise and more aware of the likely folly of my original ambition. I'd set myself a bit of a physical challenge, which might have …
